Schaffhausen discovered – a day
out
While visiting the
Rhine Falls and their rushing splendour, how about exploring the neighbouring
town of Schaffhausen? Valerie Quiblier, a South African by birth, has lived in
the small border town for many years and knows a great deal about its history
and culture, so take advantage of her knowledge when you explore the town and
its pedestrian centre on foot before enjoying a delicious lunch beside the
Rhine.
The city was founded in 1045 by Count Eberhard VI of
Nellenburg, who was granted permission by Henry III to mint coins in the town
of Scafhusun. Four year later, Eberhard founded the Kloster zu Allerheiligen,
later consecrated by Pope Leo IX. Pick up a map at the tourist office and head
for the heart of the Altstadt in Fronwagplatz,
the old market square which is graced by two impressive medieval fountains. You
can spot two towers in the distance, the Schwabentor
and the Obertor, both part of
the original city walls; normally the sun glints on these landmarks. Make a
note of the astronomical clock on
the Fronwagturm which tells the hours, days, phases of the moon, the seasons,
signs of the zodiac and the solar and lunar eclipses. Then stroll along the
Vordergasse, pausing to admire the decorated façade of the Haus zum Ritter, built in 1566 with beautifully rendered knightly
virtues painted by local artist Tobias Stimmer: the building now houses a
pharmacy.
Nearby is the famous All
Saints cathedral and cloister, with its plain interior reflecting the
Romanesque style of architecture, and a stained glass window dating back to
1100. A labyrinth on the floor of the chancel might tempt you to attempt to
penetrate to its centre. Outside in the cloisters you will see the 56 epitaphs commemorating the tombs of
distinguished town citizens, and the Schiller
Bell with its Latin inscription which inspired the German poet; the bell
was damaged in transit and the broken piece used to make a new bell. Then
linger a while in the exquisite herb
garden recreated in the style of the medieval monks, and identify some of
its many plants. 
Then take the path up through the rose garden to the nearby Munot fortress overlooking the Rhine.
The view is certainly worth the short climb, and you ascend inside the circular
tower to the upper arena where balls are held annually. The fortifications were
built in 1564-89 using local forced labour and the keep remains intact today;
there are deer in the moat and a secret tunnel leads to the Rhine. You might
visualise the Munot balls where a French dance, the quadrille, is performed at
9 and 11pm, and listen out for the watchman who rings the curfew bell at 9pm
every evening.
Then descend to the riverside where lunch awaits at the Restaurant Güterhof http://www.gueterhof.ch/ , housed in a
former warehouse. The food and the local wine are delicious and the service is also
excellent. Afterwards, you may take the bus to the Rheinfall.
By Julia Newton, 1 September 2011, with thanks to Valerie
Quiblier for her local knowledge. Updated April 2016.
